Motor change

The Deadbolt did very well its first time out pulling.  But it was very obviously under powered. 

Rules say we can run up to 3800kv brushless. Way more snot than my 35t. Well maybe not snot.  Way more wheel speed once we get moving. And that’s what I was lookin for.  

This seemed to be the flavor of choice.  4 pole 3800. 

Also put in metal gears. 

First time out on the lanes with it. We had some major hopping.  I didn’t do any adjustments to ratio or the esc programming. And we just had to much punch.  The wheels were just to fast. 

So the next run I dropped a few teeth on pinion. Swapped out to a lower 25C battery(don’t think that mattered) And kept a light touch on the throttle until we got moving. 

Ended up getting full pulls and taking my first first! 

But still need to gear down or reduce the take off speed. Oh and put on new spur.  We chewed it up. After I changed pinion.  May have been bad mesh.  But it’s only in one spot. So might be looking at motor plate flex. 

Will look at options this week


E10 first mods and run

I finally got a chance to get wrenching on the Redcat Everest 10. Getting in there,  it really feels like a solid built truck.  A few things are iffy.  Like the all Phillips head bolts, but for the most part it’s built good. 

I got the new Duratrax Showdowns put on the stock bead locks and they look huge!  And way softer than the stock ones. 

Then I moved everything over to the integy cage.  

While it looked great, and bolted right on, it seemed just too open for my tastes. So I put everything back on the original chassis. 

Was the perfect time to swap out the solid diffs. This took literally 5 minutes per axle.

Got the body lowered a bit by moving the electronics around and re drilling mounting holes.  Then finally got to take its first run. 

Oh and I put in a 27t axial motor.  Plenty of torque and speed for it.  But wow..  Chassis twist. This needs to be fixed like next. 

I got some ideas. A chassis mod to get those crazy angled shocks to stand up straight.  

So far I like it.  Can sure get up over stuff. 

The E-10

Coming up on vacation and I’ve finished the pull truck mods (for now). I almost pulled the trigger on another vehicle. But I could decide between a Tamiya Unimog, a Gmade Saw back,  or the damn 4×4 Slash that keeps whispering to me.

So I chose none of the above.

Instead I decided to get the Everest 10 up and ready,  since I got it a couple of months ago but haven’t even put a battery in it.

First things I need to do is put in the solid diffs.  The stock ones apparently are junk. But Redcat has these replacements

Then I was all set to make some different frame rails so I could lower the body and change the shock portion,  but,,  I “accidentally” picked up this  comp crawler frame

Along with a set of Duratrax Showdowns. These are some big ass tires.  Hopefully I can get out with it this weekend.

Gaining weight

For now I am going to leave the stock transmission gears and drive shafts. Once I am 100% sure this is going to be my dedicated puller or I blow something up,, then I’ll upgrade. 

Next up,  weight.  The hobbystock class I will be in is a 10lb class. And right now with battery I weigh 5.125 lbs.  That’s a lot of weight to add. 

Got the lead melter out and found a couple Altoids tins for molds.

The a block made from the lid is 1lb and a full block of the big part of the can is about 2.5 lbs. And are the perfect shape. 

I went with the 2 1lb-ers in the middle and the bigger block up front. 

Once I got everything bolted and zip tied down,  I came up to 9.5 lbs. I intentionally stayed under until I weigh up on the race scale. 

And thats it.  Now it’s tuning. What motor?  What gears? Throttle technique.. 

The change over

Now that I have an idea for the pull crawler,  let’s see if we can make it happen. 

First thing a puller needs is a hitch of some kind. The prices seemed a little steep so I’ll just make one.  

I went with a 4 link type for stability. Just used stuff I had laying around..  But any piece of square tubing that fits between the frame should work.  A couple of rod ends with the ball swivels bolted to the rear servo mount hold the bottom. 

And I replace the rear shocks with some Traxxas tie rods I had.  It looked kinda funny thru the wheelwells with just a rod there so I added some old springs. 

Added a metal link kit next. Keeping the 12.0 wheelbase. 

Since the truck was starting a new role I figured I needed a new body as well. 

Went with the Jeep Nukizer. 


After seeing the pulling trucks a couple weeks ago I decided I had to have one. So I started to build one. 

But what kind? 2wd,  pro stock,  mod, unlimited… Well I had 2 options that were in my ball park.  Buy a brand new short course for the sct class or refit the Deadbolt for the crawler class.  

I chose the crawler class.  

Good thing I have no idea what to do.. But here it goes

Time to hitch it up

This winter has changed the direction I was heading with my 2nd run of the RC bug. I was focusing on crawling, But the thing about RC today, is that it seems like all of the things I wanted to do 10-20 years ago, are now happening, and not just happening, but popular.

This whole crawling/bashing/trail truckin thing was something we did on our own. But if we tried getting a group together to just drive on rocks and jump shit,, they would have thought we were nuts. No one was gonna spend all that money on a truck, then destroy it out in a swamp. But now,, it the thing to be doing.

And now. Truck pulls. We would have given our left nut to have an RC pull club anywhere near us! Now there is, and you can bet your sweet bippy I’m in. For the foreseeable future I’m gonna be throwing all my availible car resources at building a puller.

What kind? Well this is where the plot thickens…. Stay tuned.